Tales from the Wine Trail
Tasting Notes - Mallard Gaulin, Aloxe-Corton - July 2008
Second stop on this year’s wine tour was July 1 at Maison Mallard Gaullin in Aloxe-Corton. Neil Ruane took us through a representative sample of wines from vintages 2003 through 2007 -- all the fine work of their impressive young winemaker, Ludevine Griveau.
The story in Burgundy this year is prices -- higher prices -- particularly for white wines. Quantities have been lower since 2002 and demand has escalated significantly with new markets clamouring for quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Coupled with the strong Euro, this market has resulted in big jumps in prices in Chablis, for example. We estimate that the 2007 will come to Ontario about 20% higher than the 2006 was at the start of 2008!
Bourgogne Chardonnay 07 - bright nose, fat and easy with good concentration, good citrus acidity on finish**
Chablis 07 - (recently bottled) closed nose of citrus/stone, white flowers, bright and tart, clean minerality, early days – very good length.
Saint Romain 06 - lovely nose of candy/ apple, fragrant, full and rich with excellent structure, very good length. (reserved 15 cases for Fall)
Puligny-Montrachet 06 – spicy, fat, lovely, gorgeous throughout - sold out
Chassange-Montrachet 1er Cru “Blanchots” 06 - subtly rich nose, white flowers, grapefruit rind and apple blossem, wonderfully light and wet, silky great finish *****
Corton Charlemange Grand Cru 06 - fabulously discrete nose, lush body, wet, with lovely bright structure and balance, very very long ****
Pinot Noir 07 – (recently bottled) bacon smoke, griotte and strawberries on nose, smooth with firm acidity and tannins, excellent length + structure.
Mercurey 05 - lovely tart raspberry nose good concentration, classic Chalonaisse.
Volnay 1er Cru En Chevret Tasteviné 04 – eau-de-vie and red fruit on nose, deeply extracted, powerful fruit + tannins, good fruit, impressive (25-30% new oak)
Pommard 1er Cru Clos de la Commaraine Tasteviné 05 – silky, fragrant nose, follows on palate with lovely, concentrated sweet fruits, excellent length ***** (newly acquired parcel)
Corton Grand Cru Le Rognet 03 – Lovely red fruits and candied apple on nose, beautifully structured, excellent finish.
Corton Grand Cru Hautes Mourottes 05 - lovely subtle nose, soft sweet fruits, excellent structure, great potential for keeping. ***