Domaine Anne Gros et
Jean-Paul Tollot — Minervois
What happens when two of the Cote de Nuit’s most
experienced winemakers set themselves to make terroir wines in the
south of France?
We're initially looking at two of the wines from this
exciting new Domaine and we're having to guess about price at this
stage. We have sample bottles (just arrived) with which to test the
waters.
LA 50/50 2010 Vin de Table (±$25)
— 30 year old Cargignans and 40 year old Cinsaults joined a nice cuvee
of young 18 year old Grenaches. Having matured in stainless steel
tanks, this wine is delicate, fruity and tense. Its vocation is to be
refreshing and fresh, glass after glass... during a meal.
Decanter *** 16/20 - This has lovely
spice with fresh peppery fruit and a fresh finish.There is southern
warmth while retaining essential elegance. One for the barbecue.
Guide Parker 2011: 90/100 for 2008 (David
Schildknecht) - The combination of textural refinement;palpable extract
yet levity; sheer juicy exuberance; and persistent,dynamic interplay of
stone, salt, bittersweet nut oils, and dark berry fruit render Gros and
Tollot's 2008 La 50/50 a fine value apt to prove highly versatile over
the next several years. Its slight aura of distilled fruit esters is an
theme on which the youthful 2010 raw materials consistently pick up.
Les Fontanilles 2009 Minervois (±$32)
— This cuvee is made of 4 cepages, coming from soils dominated by
Assignan sandstone, facing north and west. These small plots, are
surrounded by scrubland, pines, thyme, rosemary and cistus, and
comprise: 2.50 Ha of 20 year old Grenaches, 1.60 Ha of 20 year old
Syrahs, 1.45 Ha of 45 year old Carignans, 1.20 Ha of 40 year old
Cinsault. Each cepage is complete, and brings to the cuvee its own
characteristics. One fruitness and freshness, another sweetness,
another depth and length, the other distinction and energy.
Guide Parker 2011: 90/100 - A shrubby, resinous and
pungently herbal overtone suggestive of marjoram and rosemary, along
with notes of blond tobacco compliment the scents and flavors of
ripe,diverse black fruits in Gros and Tollot's 2009 Fontanilles, which
offers a seamlessly ripe, texturally-refined,and luscious intensity all
the way through to an invigoratingly pungent,saliva-inducinggly saline
finish. This ought to perform well for at least 5/7 years.
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate: 90/100 - This has a very
attractive bouquet with blackberry, scorched earth, a touch of fennel
and pine. Good definition. The palate is medium-bodied with firm
tannins matched with ripe, peppery black fruits and a gentle but
insistent grip towards the finish. Very fine. Tasted January 2011.
